The Small Victories

“At first I thought you had to be tough to join the Peace Corps. Now I realize that you have to be crazy!” These are the words of a recent American visitor to The Gambia. I do feel there is some truth to this statement. I have been here for 15 months now, and this experience so far has taken it toll on me; mental, emotionally, physically, even spiritually. People back home see pictures that I take here and say that this is an amazing experience. And it is, very much so. However, I can clearly say that the list of cons of being here is much longer than the list of pros. Even so, I have no intention of leaving here until it is the right time for me to go. Because for what few pros there may be, they still greatly outweigh the cons. I have written about many things that have happened here in my previous posts, but I have not written much about how I actually feel. So for this post I want to give you all a look behind the curtain. I want to tell more about some of the tough and crazy things that have happened, how they make me feel, and why they are not enough to get me to quit.

You all know some of the bad things that have happened here from my previous posts. Such as the time when my host family’s house was destroyed by a storm. The time when I had to help the people in my village fight a fire that was destroying one of their buildings. Or the time when I had a fever that was so high that my life was at risk. But here are some other things that I have not mentioned before. Each one is a long story, so I will summarize. One time I was almost run over by a man on a motorcycle. Another time I was almost blown up when a man tried lighting a cigarette next to a leaking fuel tank. Some people here will see me and say things like toubob or white boy, and it is not very often that I receive a proper greeting like hello or good morning. I have had rocks thrown at me, I have had people try to con me, and I have had to tell some men off because they were harassing my friends. So there are many times when I find myself feeling impatient or even angry with some people here. I also experience different physical ailments that make my service difficult. Earlier last month I was sick for an entire week because I had a parasite in my intestines, and it was causing fever, diarrhea, and delirium. Last week my foot was bit by a spider and it got infected. It swelled up to twice its size and I was barely able to walk on it. For the most part these are isolated incidences, but there are the day-to-day challenges that make this experience difficult also. I am always sweating, my feet are never clean (which made it hard to treat the infection in foot), I have rice for every meal, I have to ration water, and feelings of isolation or boredom can loom over me. Some people have asked me how I am able to cope with all of this. Sometimes I wonder that myself, especially during moments when my sense of humor and can-do attitude can only go so far.  In the end, it’s the small victories that do it for me.

A few months ago I attended a Malaria training and thought about potential projects to do in my village. I decided to start with my host family. I asked my host father one day if he had any mosquito nets and he said that he did not. At the time we were entering the rainy season here in The Gambia and I told him that the rains bring more mosquitoes, therefore an increased risk of Malaria. He took this information seriously and decided to get nets for the family. He obtained them the local health clinic, one for each bed in the family’s house and two for the outside sitting area. After the nets were set up I started up what I call Mosquito-Free Reading Time (MFRT). On some nights when it gets dark, some of the children in my host family and I will gather underneath a net and I will read to them. I will also tell them about why its important to sleep under a net and they seem to understand. Malaria is the leading cause of death for children under five in The Gambia. So I am pleased to know that the children in my host family are protected. I recall a certain night when I walked out to my host family’s sitting area and saw my five month old baby host sister Isatou sleeping underneath one of the nets. That moment brought on a wave of positive feelings. Just seeing her sleep safe and sound like that filled me with so much joy that I started to get teary eyed. Even now when I go and check on her at night, it still makes me feel wonderful and at ease. And I am glad that I was able to play a role in keeping her safe. To some, this may seem like a small victory, but to me this has to be one of the most rewarding things that could happen during my service. Of course she is too young to remember her big brother from America who looked out for her when she was a baby, but I will certainly remember her.

I have less than a year remaining in my service. I know that before I leave here I am going to run into times when I will feel frustrated, confused, doubtful, or even angry. But thinking about what I have been able to do for Isatou and the other children in my host family will give me all the motivation I need. And I know that I will never quit, no matter how tough things might get. I may not be a Peace Corps volunteer who makes a difference on a grand scale, but I have been able to make a difference in the lives of a small group of children and a five month old baby girl. And for me, that alone makes all the hardships that I endure from this experience well worth it.

Isatou sleeping under her mosquito net!

MFRT with the kids!

The Road So Far

It has been over a year since I have arrived in The Gambia. It has been an incredible experience, one with both good times and bad. So for this post I wanted to touch on some of the best and worst aspects of my journey thus far. I am also thinking of the future, and looking forward to certain things once I return home in another year.

First off, some things that I dislike:

• Donkeys – The squealing sound that they make is very annoying and they do it at all hours of the day.
• Limited Communication – Sometimes staying in touch with people back home is difficult. Internet access is scarce and no one back home can call my cell phone. For me to call people back home it costs about 50 cents a minute.
• Bony Fish – The fish that is eaten here is very bony. Whenever I take a bite I have to pluck a few bones first. One time at school, a bone got caught in between my teeth and I had no floss.
• Toubob – The people here call foreigners “Toubob”. It is not meant to be derogatory, but I still find it annoying. To me it is like nails on a chalkboard.
• 20 Questions – Often times I am approached by people wondering who I am, and they ask me questions. Which I know I stand out as a foreigner and they are curious to know where I am from. But information such as where I live in The Gambia, where I am currently going, and ways to contact me is given on a need-to-know basis.

Next, some things that I like:

• Domoda – A dish made up of white rice and peanut sauce that I find really tasty. Just keep the bony fish out of it.
• The Beach – I love swimming in the ocean. Also watching beach sunsets makes for a great way to unwind and get rid of all my troubles.
• My Host Family – My host father is awesome. He always has my interests at heart. My host mothers are two caring and hardworking women who make sure I never go hungry. And the kids are cool, fun, and respectful.
• Biking – I like traveling by bicycle. I get to where I need to go while getting exercise and I do not have to worry about gas prices.
• Time on my Hands – Sometimes this can cause my mind to wander and lead to negative thoughts. However, I keep myself busy with productive activities like reading and exercising. I like that I am able to read here. So far I have read over 30 books, which I never had time for back home.

Moving on to some of my worst moments: 

• Spinning Out of Control – Recently I suffered a massive headache and it felt like the room was spinning. It felt like I was placed on a carousel, spun around at 1,000 RPM for five minutes, and then had to sprint 100 yards. Once I got it to stop I could not move. If I moved my head even a little, it would start back up again. It got so bad that I threw up from it.
• Losing my Grandfather – Losing a family member is difficult as it is. But losing a family member while you are halfway around the world makes it all the more difficult.
• Seeing Friends Go – An experience like this can create strong bonds. I have become good friends with some of the other volunteers, and recently some of them have returned home. And it will not be too long until more of them go home as well. It is hard seeing them go, but it is all part of the Peace Corps experience.

Now some of my best moments:

• Marathon March – This event took place during my training. My group and I went on a day hike through some of The Gambia’s rice fields, forests, and mangrove swamps. Hiking is one of my favorite recreational activities. So I loved being able to go out and explore some of the Gambian wilderness. I have done Marathon March twice now, and I get to do it again next month!
• Talking to Loved Ones Back Home – It does not matter if it is through the internet or on the phone. Any chance to talk with a loved one back home is a Godsend.
• My Birthday – My birthday was back in December, and two of my friends came to my village to celebrate with me. Also some of the volunteers put together a little event for me one time when we were all at our transit house in Basse.

Lastly, things I am looking forward to when I return home:

• Various Food Items – Sushi, Jimmy John’s, and slurpees, just to name a few.
• Weddings – Some of the best people in my life will be getting married shortly after I return home!
• Catching Up With Family and Friends – That goes without saying.
• The Next Step – For the moment I am not sure what I will be doing after Peace Corps, but as far as I am concerned the sky is the limit.
• A Good Night’s Sleep – My mattress will be comfortable, I will not be sweating like crazy, donkeys will not be waking me up, and I will not feel smothered by my mosquito net.

Kombo

Last week I was in Kombo, which is the region of The Gambia where the capitol city Banjul is located. I went there to take part in Marathon March. A few volunteers and I lead the new group of Health volunteers on a day hike. We hiked through some of The Gambia’s forests, rice fields, and mangrove swamps. I had done Marathon March before when my group was in training, and I really enjoyed it. So I was looking forward to doing it again. I also had a meeting in Kombo regarding this year’s HIV/AIDS bike trek. Every year volunteers bike to different villages and teach HIV/AIDS awareness, and I am part of the planning committee for this year’s trek.

Kombo is actually a fairly well-developed area of the country. It is a great place for the volunteers to go to relax. They are many things that can be found in Kombo that cannot be found in village, such as cereal, candy bars, cold drinks, and fresh fruit. There are also a decent amount of restaurants that serve western style food. I also can get relatively reliable internet access. Last week I was able to have an hour long Skype chat without any complications. I also have friends that live there and its great to see them.

Perhaps my favorite part of Kombo is the beach. I love being near the ocean! The beaches here in The Gambia are not very crowded either. I recently decided that I want to compete in a triathlon when I return home. So I do a lot of swimming practice when I am in Kombo, it makes for a good time. However, what I really enjoy doing is coming to the beach just as the sun is setting. It makes for an absolutely beautiful and serene setting that allows me to unwind. I like to think that I can take my frustrations or any other negative thoughts and give them to the sun and it takes them with it as it disappears over the horizon. I have never witnessed a sunset over the ocean before coming to The Gambia. I grew up in the Midwest and lived on the east coast for a while, so I never had the opportunity. It is quite wonderful!

So Kombo is a nice place. Whenever I return to village after some time in Kombo I feel recharged and motivated. Sometimes I do not like to go there because transportation can be irritating, and I will cover that in a later post. Things continue to go well here. I may hit a few bumps in the road from time to time, but that is expected. It makes things exciting!

Back on the Grid

It has been quite some time since I submitted a post on here, which goes without saying. Lately I have been having a hard time finding things to write about. At this point in my service, it seems like nothing really comes as a surprise to my anymore. Everything around me just feels normal now, and I have been able to call this place home. However, there have been a few noteworthy moments that I do want to share, some good and some bad.

First off, I will start with some of the good things. I have been able to make considerable progress on some of my projects that I have been working on here. The library at my school has come a long way. The books have been cataloged and neatly shelved according to genre and reading level and will soon be ready for the students. I also collected letters from my 7^th and 8^th grades students here that they wrote to their American pen pals. I will be mailing them out once I return to the Capitol in the coming week. One of my counterparts and I also held a Scout weekend campfire for our Scouts. There we did various activities to promote teamwork, discipline, fitness, and other life skills. They seemed to really enjoy it, as did I. Other exciting things that happened recently were climbing to the top of a cellular tower, eating a bush rat, diving into the Gambia river, watching Gambian wrestling, encountering a warthog, and having one of my photos get chosen to be featured in a publication at my college. (Shown below)

Now for the not so good part. Last month a fire broke out in my village. It was a Sunday night and I had just finished eating dinner and was getting ready to settle in for the night. Then I heard agonizing screams coming from somewhere in my village. When I stepped outside my house I saw flames coming from nearby. I quickly put on my shoes and headed in that direction. When I got there I saw a building was on fire and the villagers were in a frenzy trying to get bowls and buckets of sand and water to try and put the fire out. I jumped in as well trying to collect sand and water to contribute. I also got a chain started with some teenagers and we were able to quickly pass sand up to the people nearest the flames. After about an hour we were able to get the fire under control. I walked back to my compound covered in dirt and feeling exhausted. My host mother gave me a jug of water so I could wash up. That night I had a hard time falling asleep. Even though I was physically exhausted from the ordeal, my mind was flooded with too many unanswered question. I was wondering, how did the fire start? Whose building was that? Was anyone hurt? How much damage was done? The lack of information made it difficult to sleep. The next morning I met up with one of the village elders to try and get some answers. It turned out that it was a shop that caught fire when a gas stove went haywire and took the building. Thankfully, no one lost their lives that night. Also the fire did not spread to anyone’s homes. So that was a rough night, but things have gone back to normal and adequate repairs have been done on the building.

So that is a summary of the last few months. I will make a conscious effort to post on here more regularly. I am a third of the way done with my Peace Corps service, so I should have plenty of new and exciting experiences to share along the way!

I also want to take this moment to thank a few people. I first want to thank everyone who has sent me something, and you know who you are. Your gifts has been a Godsend! Also I would like to thank the students and staff at Saint Stephen School for their participation and continued patience during our pen pal project. The letters from your Gambian pen pals will be sent out soon! Lastly I would like to thank my mother and the students and staff at North Branch Elementary School for their generous book donations. They are a great addition to the school library here, and the teachers and students are very happy to have them. Pictures to come soon! Thank you again everyone and God bless!